For a long time, I treated ground lamb as if it were a black sheep.
As I suspect is the case for many home cooks, the world of ground meat was limited to beef, pork, and turkey. I’d make burgers, spaghetti and meatballs, chili or crispy-shelled tacos with one of those three meats. They’re all displayed prominently at the grocery store, often pre-portioned and pre-packaged, waiting for you to take them home.
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Sure, I’d order a lamb burger when I was out a restaurant sometimes. I’d even tried this one at home where the meat is cooked directly inside of a pita. (It was really great, for the record, but not endlessly riff-able.) The real leap came when I learned the gloriousness of crisping up pieces in a hot cast iron pan. (For all of you who often end up with grayish, decidedly un-crispy mush, here’s how to do it the right way.)
It was this recipe for Spicy Lamb and Lentils with Herbs (pictured above) that showed me the way. You don’t actually need a lot of meat to impart flavor, and the lentils are there as a protein-filled supporting cast. The red pepper flakes and garlic bring the heat, and then the cucumbers, parsley, and cilantro lighten the whole thing up. It’s a gold medal for balance, inspiring countless variations. I’ve never looked back.
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When lamb is ground and crisp, it tastes less gamey than a chop, but you still get its earthiness. It plays well with strong spices, like cumin, fennel, and chili flakes. The best part, though, is how a little bit goes a long way because it’s so rich. It begs for heaps of herbs, crunchy vegetables, and tangy yogurt to balance out the fat.
For weeknight dinners, I eat ground lamb on top of brown rice, but it works well with any grain. I add a scoop of creamy hummus, some crumbled feta cheese, and a handful of torn parsley leaves. Sometimes I’ll bake a sweet potato and top it with caramelized onions, a bit of yogurt, and then sprinkle the lamb on top. Think of it like a loaded baked potato, but possibly even better.
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