Of my four camellia plants, one — the one that gets the least sun — has pale and blotchy leaves. There are plenty of tender new leaves coming on, but I’m concerned because the other plants seem to be doing fine. All of them had lots of flowers last season. Should I worry about this one?
There are several things that can cause camellia leaves to become pale and blotchy.
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Fungal diseases can cause leaf spots in a variety of sizes and shapes depending on the species of fungi present. But typically, they do little damage and can be managed by amping up your general maintenance routine.
Since there’s no sign of insect infestations, and the plant is otherwise healthy and producing new growth, it’s a good possibility that a dose of fertilizer is in order. We gardeners often forget that low-maintenance is not the same as no-maintenance and that our stalwart camellias need periodic attention.
Use a fertilizer with equal amounts of nitrogen and potassium (the first and third numbers on the fertilizer tag) and low phosphorus (the middle number). Or, look for an acid-forming fertilizer that contains micronutrients such as iron, manganese and zinc. If your camellia is growing in an alkaline pH soil, the leaves can yellow because of a lack of these particular micronutrients.
The first application should be in spring after blooming but before new growth begins. Use about half a pound per 100 square feet of planting area. A second application should be given right about now in mid-June through early July. Fertilizing later than July may encourage tender new growth that will be susceptible to damage from an early freeze.
There are several tips about caring for your camellias in the UF publication, “Camellias at a Glance” (edis.ifas.ufl.edu/pdffiles/EP/EP00200.pdf).
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We have a 20-year-old Satsuma tree and for the first time I’ve noticed that here and there new leaves are coming out all misshapen. They twist and literally curl into a cigar-shape. Is this going to spread to the rest of the tree? Is this the precursor of some lethal disease?
Not necessarily. Uncurl the leaves. Are there tiny dots inside the cigar on the underside of the leaf? Then it’s likely aphids.
Aphids are very small, pear shaped sap-sucking insects that feed on new plant growth. There are about 4,000 species around the world that come in many colors with or without wings. So it’s hard to determine which species without seeing them.
The spirea aphid, however, is a common citrus pest and is almost identical to the color of a young citrus leaf, making it hard to see. Their sap-sucking on young growth causes leaves to become curled and twisted. Distorted leaves don’t do their job of producing food for the plant well. Aphids are also able to transmit viral diseases. When coupled with how quickly their colonies grow, it is obvious that aphids can pose a real danger to citrus, particularly young trees.
Your 20-year-old tree should be large enough to sustain losing a few leaves. Because they appear only “here and there,” why not take a soft approach to pest management. Simply pick off and remove the infected leaves. Or, you can introduce the aphids’ mortal enemy, the ladybug, and let them take care of it for you.
Of course, there are soaps, oils and insecticides you can use to get rid of the problem if it becomes more wide-spread. Read the labels on all products to be sure it’s effective on aphids, and follow the instructions carefully.
Just for fun, I planted the green top of a pineapple, as I’ve seen done on the internet. What do you know – it grew! How do you know if it’s time to harvest it? And can a pineapple plant have more than one fruit at a time?
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A quick factoid with which to impress friends and family: Pineapple is a seedless fruit produced from the “fusion” of 50 to over 200 individual, bisexual flowers into one large fruit. Google “syncarp” for a more complete explanation of the fruit. Pineapples are related to bromiliads and Spanish moss, by the way.
Back to your question: While growing a pineapple by planting the green top is easy, deciding when to harvest is a bit tricky.
From the time the plant first flowers to the time you have fruit is generally around six months. As the fruit matures, the peel, or shell, changes color from green to yellow starting at its base and moving up. In the process, it grows to a hefty 5 or more pound size.
When the fruit’s shell is two-thirds yellow, it’s considered mature (ready to pick) but not necessarily ripe. Check the aroma at the base of the pineapple where it is most fragrant. Does it have that distinctive pineapple smell yet? The aroma develops as the fruit’s sugar does and no aroma means insufficient sugar. Rap the side of the fruit. A pineapple that sounds solid isn’t ripe enough to enjoy.
You can ripen a mature green fruit at room temperature, but never refrigerate an unripe pineapple. It will quickly rot.
As for your second question – yes. A pineapple plant can set more than one fruit at a time, though it’s not common.
If you, too, Dear Reader, would like to try your hand at growing pineapple at home, everything you need to know can be found in publication, aptly named “Pineapple Growing in the Florida Home Landscape” (edis.ifas.ufl.edu/mg055).
Paula Weatherby is a master gardener with the Duval County Extension Service and the University of Florida/IFAS. If you have gardening questions, you can speak to a master gardener from 9:30 a.m. to noon and 12:30 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. Monday through Friday at the Duval extension office at (904) 255-7450.
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