Bread can make or break a meal, whether you’re using it for breakfast toast, sandwich bookends, or serving it alongside soup or stew. There’s no shortage of sourdough bread bakers in Portland—in fact, while the bakeries we sampled for this test are open most days each week, a few star bakers in town offer bread just one to a few times a week, including Starter Bread and Josh Fairbanks Bread. We chose each bakery’s closest offering to plain white sourdough, then sliced them up and ate them fresh. Read on for the results.
The Best Sourdough Bread
Cafe Olli – The Every Day Loaf
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Cafe Olli’s menu revolves around wood hearth-baked dough, from pizza to sandwiches to pastries. The Every Day Loaf is a massive round, with a crackly crust that packs nutty, toasty flavor with a hint of bitterness for balance. The bread has a super-moist open crumb with lots of fluffy air pockets, and its tang makes it delightful to eat even on its own. “It’s very dynamic,” said a tester. Try it with soup and lots of butter (we did) and toast it up for breakfast the next morning, with peanut butter and honey on top.
Very Good Sourdough Bread
Little T Baker – Country Loaf
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This loaf has a thick, chewy crust—maybe just a hair too-chewy—and a medium-brown interior, the darkest of the breads we tried. The airy insides are malty and complex, with a hint of natural sweetness. It has nutty notes similar to the Cafe Olli loaf, but with a little more malt flavor and a touch less salt.
Ken’s Artisan Bakery – Country Blonde
This bakery was a Portland artisanal bread pioneer when it opened in 2001, with then-owner Ken Forkish placing his loaves in restaurants from Paley’s Place to Higgins. Forkish has since retired and traded Portland for Hawaii, but his employees now cooperatively own and operate the bakery. This slightly tangy option would be ideal for ham sandwiches with zippy Dijon, or for breakfast toast with jam.
Baker & Spice – Village Loaf
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While the flour is significantly more bleached than others, this loaf is by no means less flavorful. Tasters liked the juxtaposition between the crunchy crust and lightly salty, slightly tangy interior. We could see this one working especially well for classic sandwiches, like turkey or grilled cheese.
OK Sourdough Bread
Tabor Bread – Country Pan Loaf
The only pan loaf of the bunch, this one stands out from the pack with its compact rectangular shape. The crumb inside is much tighter than any of the other breads we tried, with its density approaching that of German bread. Though this loaf was middle-ranked for most of our testers, one bread eater proclaimed, “I might put Tabor above Ken’s, honestly.”
Grand Central Bakery – Sourdough
Grand Central’s sourdough lacks the complexity of our top picks, with its flavors resembling more of a white Italian loaf. Testers also noted that it required a bit of work to chew. Still, at $4.10—about half the price of our top picks—and locations around town and in the suburbs, it’s a perfectly serviceable, versatile bread that will work for most applications. Just don’t expect it to be the star of the show.
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