SNO-SEAL Instructions
For best results; preheat clean and dry boots or shoes (use heat lamp, sunny window, or hair dryer). Do not heat beyond comfortable handling temperature of 120°F. Rub SNO-SEAL into leather liberally. The warm leather will melt the SNO-SEAL and draw it deep into the pores and fibers.
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Apply as much SNO-SEAL as the leather will absorb. Remove excess wax with a rag and buff with a brush for shine. Color and high gloss can be maintained on dress shoes by applying regular shoe polish over SNO-SEAL.
SNO-SEAL Beeswax waterproofing lubricates leather and protects against drying and deterioration for longer than greases, oils and animal fats. SNO-SEAL is a natural wax and, unlike other products, will never weaken, decay, or break down the leather or stitching and seams.
CAUTION: will somewhat darken all leather. Not recommended for suede leather. If used on suede it will darken and flatten the nap, changing the appearance. (It will water proof and preserve the leather).
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WARNING: Keep out of reach of children.
Application Tips for SNO-SEAL Original Beeswax Waterproofing for Leather
The basic instructions for Sno-Seal are quite simple and after a few applications you will develop your own preferences and techniques. This article is for those who want to understand how it works and get outstanding results on the very first try.
The magic of Sno-Seal is that AFTER application it has a melt point of 155F so that even on the hottest day it does not migrate through the leather. It STAYS in the top surface of the leather, where it is needed for waterproofness, so it does not require frequent reapplication.
Application is only possible because of a temporary solvent that lowers the melt point to 105F and then evaporates completely. That is why Sno-Seal hardens during storage if you leave the lid off the jar.
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Preheating leather to 110F to 125F causes Sno-Seal to melt instantly when it touches the surface of the leather so that it can easily penetrate. There is a subtle, but very important, difference between putting Sno-Seal on leather and then heating it, vs. putting it on leather that is already warm. Solvents evaporate toward a source of heat. So if Sno-Seal is applied and then heated, most of the solvent evaporates toward the hair dryer leaving the wax on top of the leather. On preheated boots, the solvent evaporates into the warm leather drawing the wax in with it.
You may use a sunny window, a wood stove, a heat lamp, a 125F oven or the warm air from central heat to preheat several pair at once. Now apply Sno-Seal to each boot and return it to the heat. By the time you get back to the first boot, it will have a dull appearance indicating that all the wax was absorbed. Add more Sno-Seal to each boot in the same order. When you get back to the first you may find areas that are still shiny, indication that that is more wax than the leather could absorb. Add a bit more Sno-Seal the dull areas of each boot until they remain shiny for a few minutes. This will leave a little excess on the surface. This is ideal for maximum resistance to abrasion from grass and snow.
If a more finished look is desired you can buff off the excess with a towel. You can also apply color shoe polish right over the Sno-Seal.
With a little trial and error you can get great results with Sno-Seal on weather exposed wood like the teak trim on a sailboat. Sno-Seal can protect wood from water while preserving an “unfinished” look. Use it to ease screws into wood like treated decks while sealing the hole to prevent rust. Sno-Seal is used when blades are fastened to skating boots.
Sno-Seal will maintain proper moisture in horses’ hooves and has been used to protect abused skin, allowing it to heal itself more quickly. But we recommend Pro-Tech-Skin ™ for these uses because it is made of all food grade ingredients.
See the complete Atsko/Sno-Seal line of products to care for clothing, footwear, gear, skin, and pets at www.atsko.com
Source: https://t-tees.com
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