How To Crochet Convertible Gloves - T-Tees - Your Answers Await, Life's Questions Unraveled

Table of Contents

Convertible mittens work for fall, winter, or spring. This crochet pattern comes in teens/women’s and kids sizes with notes on adjusting it for toddlers if you are so inclined. These flip top mittens are made with #4 worsted weight yarn so they are thick and warm when they need to be. Find the free crochet pattern instructions below, or purchase a print-optimized, ad-free PDF by clicking here.

You may be interested

Click here to add this to your Ravelry queue!

You are viewing: How To Crochet Convertible Gloves

So many of you requested fingerless mitts that I had to give it a try! These cozy convertible mittens have a flap that folds back so you can keep your hands warm while having your fingers free to do things that require extra dexterity.

When it’s cold you can easily flip the finger cover over your fingertips to provide extra protection from the elements.

These convertible gloves are pretty easy to crochet as far as the stitches used, however there are some tricky spots that require a bit of extra concentration. I’ve included some pictures in the adult size pattern to help explain those areas better. Once you make the first mitten the second should be much easier!

Difficulty:IntermediateTechniques used: half-double crochet in the 3rd loop, reverse single crochet, surface slip stitching, front post double crochet, single crochet 2 together, and double crochet 2 together.

Materials Needed:220, 255 yards #4 worsted weight Red Heart Soft in the color of your choice.3.75mm hook (band)5mm hook, or hook needed to obtain gauge (body)Yarn needleScissors2 20mm buttonsStitch markers

Stitches Used:sl st = slip stitchsc = single crochethdc = half double crochetdc = double crochetsc2tog = single crochet 2 togetherdc2tog = double crochet 2 togetherFPdc = front post double crochetrsc = reverse single crochet (crab stitch)

Additional Terms:hdc in the 3rd loop = Look at the top of the stitch, and locate the sideways “V”, bend the stitch to look at the back*, and you should see another “V”. You’ll be working into the back loop of that “V”, this is called the 3rd loop. *When working in rows this 3rd loop will be facing you. Click the link for a picture tutorial. st/sts = stitch/stitchessp/sps = space/spacesprev = previous

Measurements:Child (6-9 yrs) Mitten: 4″ wide at widest point, by 7″ longAdult Mitten: 4 1/2” wide at widest point, by approximately 8-9 1/2” long, by 3 3/4”-4” across fingers.

Gauge:Alternating FPdc in next st, sc in next st: 7 sts in 2” using 5mm hook. 12 rows of the same stitch gives 4” of height.

Additional Notes:-Ch 1 at beginning of round does not count as a stitch.-This pattern can be made longer or shorter based on the length of the person’s hand that you are making the mittens for.-Pull your joins snug to minimize the seam.-This pattern does not have a toddler size because this yarn is pretty thick for tiny fingers. Try crocheting a toddler size following the child’s mitten pattern using a a #2 or #3 yarn and a 3mm hook for the wrist band and crab stitched trim, and 4mm hook for the mitten body. -Some photos are included in the adult size mitten pattern to help you place the convertible end of the mitten properly. The same idea applies to the child size mitten.

Disclaimer: This post contains affiliate links. When you purchase something using these links a small percentage of the sales price goes to me. However, you do not pay any extra for the item you purchase.

Double Seed Stitch Convertible Mittens (US Terms):

This pattern starts out with you making a wrist band, and moving directly into a fingerless mitt. After that the thumb is added, and finally the finger cover or flip top is worked over top of the rounds near the end of the fingerless mitt. Pictures are included of the adult size convertible mitten pattern, but the idea with the child’s size mitt is the same.

Child (6-9 yrs) Convertible Mittens Pattern (make 2):

Wrist band:This makes a short 1 1/4” wide wrist band. If you want to fold your wrist band over you can start by chaining 13 instead.

With 3.75mm hook,Row 1: Leaving a 6″ tail, ch 7, hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in each st across. (6)Rows 2-20: ch 1, turn, working in 3rd loop of hdc from prev row, hdc in each st across. (6)

The band should measure about 6 1/2” long by approximately 1 1/4” wide and wrap comfortably around the child’s wrist.

Fold band in half and join row 20 to row 1 with a sl st.

Sew ends of band together with 6” tail.

Convertible mitten body:Using 5mm (H) hook, working along side of band,Round 1: ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc (place stitch marker in sl st). (20)Round 2: ch 1, sc in first st, FPdc around same st, sc in next st, *FPdc around next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around, dc in sl st where st marker is, join with sl st to first sc. (22)Round 3: ch 1, FPdc around first st, sc in next st, *FPdc around next st, sc in next st; repeat from *around, join with sl st to first FPdc (place stitch marker in sl st). (22)Round 4: ch 1, dc in top of first st, sc in same st, FPdc around next st, *sc in next st, FPdc around next st; repeat from * around, sc in sl st where stitch marker is, join with sl st to first dc. (24)Round 5: ch 1, sc in first st, FPdc around next st, *sc in next st, FPdc around next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc (place stitch marker in sl st). (24)Round 6: ch 1, sc in first st, FPdc around same st, sc in next st, *FPdc around next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around, dc in sl st where stitch marker is, join with sl st to first sc. (26)Round 7: ch 1, FPdc around first st, sc in next st, *FPdc around next st, sc in next st; repeat from *around, join with sl st to first FPdc (place stitch marker in sl st). (26)Round 8: ch 1, dc in top of first st, sc in same st, FPdc around next st, *sc in next st, FPdc around next st; repeat from * around, sc in sl st where stitch marker is, join with sl st to first dc. (28)Round 9: ch 1, sc in first st, FPdc around next st, *sc in next st, FPdc around next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc (place stitch marker in sl st). (28)Round 10: ch 1, sc in first st, FPdc around same st, sc in next st, *FPdc around next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around, dc in sl st where stitch marker is, join with sl st to first sc. (30)

We will now make the thumb hole. Your thumb hole should take up 8 stitches. We’ll come back and add the thumb after we complete the body of the mitt. Slip stitches are not included in end of round counts for the following round.

Round 11: sl st over 4 sts, ch 1, place stitch marker in sc, [FPdc around sc, sc in next st] 11 times, on final time place st marker in same st as last sc was worked (this will be a FPdc from prev round), sk 4 sts, join with sl st to first FPdc. (22)Round 12: ch 1, sc in first st, FPdc around next st, *sc in next st, FPdc around next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (22)Round 13: ch 1, FPdc around first st, sc in next st, *FPdc around next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (22)Round 14: ch 1, sc in first st, FPdc around next st, *sc in next st, FPdc around next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (22)

Refer to more articles: How Often To Replace Dishwashing Gloves

Trim:With 3.75mm hook,Round 1: ch 1, rsc in each st around.With 5mm hook, continuing to work in the reverse direction,Round 2: sl st loosely along outside of glove between round 1 of the trim and the last round of the body of the mitt.

Thumb:You will first work a sc2tog to close the gap that resulted from creating the thumb hole in round 11. The first part of the sc2tog will be worked in the sc and the dc where your stitch markers are. This sc2tog just serves to fill a gap and will be skipped in round 2 of the thumb.

Attach yarn to bottom of thumb hole closest to the mitten body,Round 1: ch 1, work sc2tog in top of sc and top of dc from round 13 to close gap from that round, FPdc around sc, *sc in next st, FPdc around next sc; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc2tog. (9)Round 2: ch 1, sk sc2tog st, sc in next st, FPdc around next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (8)Round 3: ch 1, FPdc around first st, sc in next st, *FPdc around next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (8)Round 4: ch 1, sc in first st, FPdc around next st, *sc in next st, FPdc around next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (8)Round 5: ch 1, FPdc around first st, sc in next st, *FPdc around next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (8)

Fasten off leaving a 6″ tail.

Sew end of thumb together with tail.

Child convertible mitten finger cover:This next section is worked over the top of the bottom portion of your fingerless glove. It is worked in the stitches from round 12 but will be at the level of round 13. You should have 11 “pairs” of FPdc, and sc stitches in round 12. I recommend using stitch markers to mark the FPdc stitches where you will be adding the additional sc stitches for the cover (see the adult mitten pattern for pictures of how to work this section if you get stuck). With your fingerless glove laying flat, attach your yarn to one side of the fingerless glove at the edge. Remember, you are going to be working a left and a right-hand mitten. Where you attach the yarn will end up being the front of the mitten, so on the right hand mitten this spot will be on the far right side closest to your first pinky knuckle, and for the left-hand mitten this spot will be on the side just under the thumb hole. This next part will be worked as long as you need it to be to cover your fingers. If you need to see pictures for how this is worked see the adult convertible mitten pattern.

The finger cover (for lack of a better term) will be worked as long as you need it to be to cover your fingers. Keep very relaxed tension when crocheting the chain in round 1 otherwise the cover will be very tight around the child’s fingers at that point. It should be a little bit snug to hold things in place, but it should not be uncomfortable. Go up a hook size or two for this part if needed:

Attach yarn to top of first FPdc in round 13 (there will be a sc worked into this stitch, but you will be working another),Round 1: sc in top of first FPdc, ch 1, sk st, [sc in top of next FPdc, ch 1, sk st] 6 times, ch 10 (this will bring your opening to 11 chains), sk to first st of round, join with sl st to first sc. (7 sc, 6 ch-1 sps, 1 ch-11 sp)Round 2: ch 1, [FPdc around sc, sc in ch-1 sp] 6 times, Note: last sc of this section will be worked in the first ch of ch-11 sp you made in prev round, [dc in next st, sc in next step] 5 times, join with sl st to first FPdc. (22)Round 3: ch 1, sc in first st, FPdc around next st, *sc in next st, FPdc around next st; repeat from * across, join with sl st to first sc. (22)Round 4: ch 1, FPdc around first st, sc in next st, * FPdc around next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (22)

Repeat rounds 3 and 4 until mitten cover is about 1/2 from the bottom of the child’s fingertips, then begin decreases.

In the next round there are 2 different ways of doing the decreases, either you can work FPdc stitches around each sc and skip the FPdc stitches from the previous round, or you can work dc2tog stitches working one “leg” of the stitch as a normal dc and the other “leg” as a FPdc. They should be joined as dc2tog sts are normally at the top. The only difference is the positioning of on “leg”. Method 2 will give a denser fabric and is better for colder climates.

Decreases:Round 1 (method 1): ch 1, FPdc around each sc st in the round, skipping all FPdc sts, join with sl st to first FPdc. (11)Round 1 (method 2): ch 1, reduce opening by working dc2tog sts across the pairs of FPdc and sc sts. Each FPdc will get a dc “leg” worked in the top, and each sc will get a FPdc “leg” worked around it. (11)Round 2: ch 1, *sc2tog; repeat from * around, sc in final st, join with sl st to first sc2tog. (6)

Fasten off leaving 6” tail for sewing end of mitten shut. Do not sew shut yet though.

Trim at back of finger cover:We will now work the trim at the back opening of the convertible mitten section. This will give the opening a nice look when you have the finger part folded back over the top of your hand.

We will begin with rsc so you will want to attach your yarn on the opposite side of the direction you want to head. This part will be worked across the back side of the ch-11 sp from round 1 of the convertible mitten finger cover.

With 3.75mm hook,Row 1: attach yarn to side of st next to first ch of the ch-11 sp, rsc in each st across, sl st into side of st at end of ch-11 sp. With 5mm hook,Row 2: working back the way you came sl st loosely between row 1, and round 1 of the convertible mitten finger cover.Fasten off, and weave in ends.

Button loop:Cut 3 12” strands of yarn.

Knot the strands together about 1 1/2″-2″ from the ends. This is a temporary step. You will undo these knots in just a few minutes so don’t make them too tight. Braid the strands into a tight 3-strand braid. This braid needs to be long enough for the button you just sewed to the front of the mitten in the previous step to pass through. Knot the other end of the braid about 1 1/2-2″ from the end. Again, this is a temporary step.

Turn the convertible part of this mitten inside out.

Use a needle and sew through each stitch at end of mitten, but do not cinch shut. You will be pulling the braid through this opening in just a few moments.

Fold the braid in half. Using a hook, thread this braid through the hole at the end of the mitten. Cinch shut, but do not weave in end yet.

Undo the temporary knots at each end of the braid. Check to make sure there is still enough of the button loop sticking out the other side to go around the button. Knot both ends of braid together securely to hold the button loop in place.Use 6″ tail from end of mitten to sew through the knotted end of the button loop a few times to secure it. Use the whole length of the tail and double check to make sure it won’t pull out.

Refer to more articles: How Rawlings Baseball Gloves Are Made

Weave ends of braid into end of convertible mitten to help secure the loop further.

Turn convertible mitten end right-side out.

Repeat these instructions for second convertible mitten.

Adult Convertible Mittens Pattern (make 2):

Wrist band:This makes a short 1 1/2” wrist band. If you want to fold your wrist band over you can start by chaining 15 instead.

With 3.75mm hook,Row 1: Leaving a 6″ tail, ch 8, hdc in 2nd ch from hook, hdc in each st across. (7)Rows 2-22 (24): ch 1, turn, working in 3rd loop of hdc from prev row, hdc in each st across. (7)

The smaller, 22 row wrist band should measure 7” long.The larger, 24 row wrist band should measure 8” long.

Fold band in half and join row 22 (24) to row 1 with a sl st.

Sew ends of band together with 6” tail.

Mitt body:Pick the round 1 Instructions based on which wrist band you made. You should end up with 24 sc after round 1 either way.

Using 5mm (H) hook, working along side of band,Round 1 (smaller wrist band): ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in each st around, 2 sc in final st, join with sl st to first sc (place stitch marker in sl st). (24)Round 1 (larger wrist band): ch 1, sc in each st around, join with sl st to first sc (place stitch marker in sl st). (24)Round 2: ch 1, sc in first st, FPdc around same st, sc in next st, *FPdc around next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around, dc in sl st where st marker is, join with sl st to first sc. (26)Round 3: ch 1, FPdc around first st, sc in next st, *FPdc around next st, sc in next st; repeat from *around, join with sl st to first FPdc (place stitch marker in sl st). (26)Round 4: ch 1, dc in top of first st, sc in same st, FPdc around next st, *sc in next st, FPdc around next st; repeat from * around, sc in sl st where stitch marker is, join with sl st to first dc. (28)Round 5: ch 1, sc in first st, FPdc around next st, *sc in next st, FPdc around next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc (place stitch marker in sl st). (28)Round 6: ch 1, sc in first st, FPdc around same st, sc in next st, *FPdc around next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around, dc in sl st where stitch marker is, join with sl st to first sc. (30)Round 7: ch 1, FPdc around first st, sc in next st, *FPdc around next st, sc in next st; repeat from *around, join with sl st to first FPdc (place stitch marker in sl st). (30)Round 8: ch 1, dc in top of first st, sc in same st, FPdc around next st, *sc in next st, FPdc around next st; repeat from * around, sc in sl st where stitch marker is, join with sl st to first dc. (32)Round 9: ch 1, sc in first st, FPdc around next st, *sc in next st, FPdc around next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc (place stitch marker in sl st). (32)Round 10: ch 1, sc in first st, FPdc around same st, sc in next st, *FPdc around next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around, dc in sl st where stitch marker is, join with sl st to first sc. (34)Round 11: ch 1, FPdc around first st, sc in next st, *FPdc around next st, sc in next st; repeat from *around, join with sl st to first FPdc (place stitch marker in sl st). (34)Round 12: ch 1, dc in top of first st, sc in same st, FPdc around next st, *sc in next st, FPdc around next st; repeat from * around, sc in sl st where stitch marker is, join with sl st to first dc. (36)

We will now make the thumb hole. Your thumb hole should take up 10 stitches. We’ll come back and add the thumb after we complete the body of the mitt. Slip stitches are not included in end of round counts for the following round.

Round 13: sl st over 5 sts, ch 1, place stitch marker in sc (this will be from round 12), [FPdc around sc, sc in next st] 13 times, on final time place st marker in same st as last sc was worked (this will also be a FPdc from round 12), sk 5 sts, join with sl st to first FPdc. (26)

This picture shows the placement of the first stitch marker:

This picture shows the second stitch marker placed in the last stitch before you skip the remaining stitches of the round:

This is what the mitten will look like from the end once you have joined the round. You can clearly see the thumb hole on the bottom, and the larger hole on the top for your fingers.:

Round 14: ch 1, sc in first st, FPdc around next st, *sc in next st, FPdc around next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (26)Round 15: ch 1, FPdc around first st, sc in next st, *FPdc around next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (26)Round 16: ch 1, sc in first st, FPdc around next st, *sc in next st, FPdc around next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (26) Trim:With 3.75mm hook, Round 1: ch 1, rsc in each st around.Round 2: with 5mm hook, sl st loosely along outside of glove between round 1 of the trim and the last round of the body of the mitt.

Thumb:You will first work a sc2tog to close the gap that resulted from creating the thumb hole in round 13. The first part of the sc2tog will be worked in the sc and the dc where your stitch markers are. This sc2tog just serves to fill a gap and will be skipped in round 2 of the thumb.

Attach yarn to bottom of thumb hole closest to the mitten body,Round 1: ch 1, work sc2tog in top of sc and top of dc from round 13 to close gap from that round, FPdc around sc, *sc in next st, FPdc around next sc; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc2tog. (11)Round 2: ch 1, sk sc2tog st, *sc in next st, FPdc around next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (10)Round 3: ch 1, FPdc in around first st, sc in next st, *FPdc around next st sc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (10)Round 4: ch 1, sc in first st, FPdc around next st, *sc in next st, FPdc around next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (10)Round 5: ch 1, FPdc in around first st, sc in next st, *FPdc around next st sc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (10)Round 6: ch 1, sc in first st, FPdc around next st, *sc in next st, FPdc around next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first sc. (10)Round 7: ch 1, FPdc around each sc st in the round, skipping all FPdc sts, join with sl st to first FPdc. (5)

Fasten off leaving a 6″ tail.

Sew end of thumb together with tail.

Convertible mitten finger cover: This next section is worked over the top of the bottom portion of your fingerless glove. It is worked in the stitches from round 15 but will be at the level of round 16. You should have 13 “pairs” of FPdc, and sc stitches in round 15. I recommend using stitch markers to mark the FPdc stitches where you will be adding the additional sc stitches for the cover, like this (the colors don’t mean anything, I just like patterns):

Refer to more articles: How Often Should You Change Disposable Gloves

Right hand.

Left hand.

With your fingerless glove laying flat, attach your yarn to one side of the fingerless glove at the edge. Remember, you are going to be working a left and a right-hand mitten. Where you attach the yarn will end up being the front of the mitten, so on the right hand mitten this spot will be on the far right side closest to your first pinky knuckle, and for the left-hand mitten this spot will be on the side just under the thumb hole.

Here are a couple more pictures to help you out. This is the start of round 1 (see instructions below). Notice how my first stitch is worked in a spot that already has a stitch worked into it? This is why the stitch markers are helpful.

This is round 1 after you have worked a few of the repeats in the brackets:

The finger cover (for lack of a better term) will be worked as long as you need it to be to cover your fingers. Keep very relaxed tension when crocheting the chain in round 1 otherwise the cover will be very tight around your fingers at that point. It should be a little bit snug to hold things in place, but it should not be uncomfortable. Go up a hook size or two for this part if needed.

Attach yarn to top of first FPdc in round 15 (there will be a sc worked into this stitch, but you will be working another),Round 1: sc in top of first FPdc, ch 1, sk st, [sc in top of next FPdc, ch 1, sk st] 6 times, ch 12 (this will bring your opening to 13 chains), sk to first st of round, join with sl st to first sc. (7 sc, 6 ch-1 sps, 1 ch-13 sp)Round 2: ch 1, [FPdc around sc, sc in ch-1 sp] 7 times, Note: last sc of this section will be worked in the first ch of ch-13 sp you made in prev round, [dc in next st, sc in next step] 6 times, join with sl st to first FPdc. (26)Round 3: ch 1, sc in first st, FPdc around next st, *sc in next st, FPdc around next st; repeat from * across, join with sl st to first sc. (26)Round 4: ch 1, FPdc around first st, sc in next st, * FPdc around next st, sc in next st; repeat from * around, join with sl st to first FPdc. (26)

Repeat rounds 3 and 4 until mitten cover is about 1/2 from the bottom of your fingertips, then begin decreases.In the next round there are 2 different ways of doing the decreases, either you can work FPdc stitches around each sc and skip the FPdc stitches from the previous round, or you can work dc2tog stitches working one “leg” of the stitch as a normal dc and the other “leg” as a FPdc. They should be joined as dc2tog sts are normally at the top. The only difference is the positioning of on “leg”. Method 2 will give a denser fabric and is better for colder climates.

Decreases:Round 1 (method 1): ch 1, FPdc around each sc st in the round, skipping all FPdc sts, join with sl st to first FPdc. (13)Round 1 (method 2): ch 1, reduce opening by working dc2tog sts across the pairs of FPdc and sc sts. Each FPdc will get a dc “leg” worked in the top, and each sc will get a FPdc “leg” worked around it. (13)Round 2: ch 1, *sc2tog; repeat from * around, sc in final st, join with sl st to first sc2tog. (7)

Fasten off leaving 6” tail for sewing end of mitten shut. Do not sew shut yet though.

We will begin with rsc so you will want to attach your yarn on the opposite side of the direction you want to head. This part will be worked across the back side of the ch-13 sp from round 1 of the convertible mitten finger cover.

With 3.75mm hook,Row 1: attach yarn to side of st next to first ch of the ch-13 sp, rsc in each st across, sl st into side of st at end of ch-13 sp. With 5mm hook,Row 2: working back the way you came, sl st loosely between row 1 and round 1 of the convertible mitten finger cover.

Fasten off, and weave in ends.

Center 20mm button on front of mitten where the wrist band meets the mitten body and sew in place.

This is what the finger cover will look like where round 1 attaches to the body of the mitt. This picture also shows the trim on the back of the finger cover.

Button loop:Cut 3 12” strands of yarn.

Turn the convertible part of this mitten inside out.

Use a needle and sew through each stitch at end of mitten, but do not cinch shut. You will be pulling the braid through this opening in just a few moments.

Fold the braid in half. Using a hook, thread this braid through the hole at the end of the mitten. Cinch shut, but do not weave in end yet.

Undo the temporary knots at each end of the braid. Check to make sure there is still enough of the button loop sticking out the other side to go around the button.

Knot both ends of braid together to hold the button loop in place.

Use 6″ tail from end of mitten to sew through the knotted end of the button loop a few times to secure it. Use the whole tail and double check to make sure it won’t pull out.

Weave ends of braid into end of convertible mitten to help secure the loop further.

Turn convertible mitten end right-side out.

Repeat these instructions for second convertible mitten.

Want more gorgeous crochet patterns, and a little encouragement for your day? Sign up for my newsletter here! That way you’ll never miss out on special events, or freebies I’m offering.JOIN ME ON SOCIAL MEDIAI would love to see a picture when you’re done, so please feel free to come by my Facebook group and show off your finished project! Be sure to tag @kirstenhollowaydesigns when you share pictures of your items on Instagram.You can also follow me on Facebook, Pinterest, Instagram, and Ravelry for more beautiful crochet patterns.PATTERN TERMS AND CONDITIONS:You are welcome to share the link to this pattern, using one image of your choice, on your site, but please do not share the written patterns themselves, this includes my Ravelry downloads or translations of these patterns, or use additional images. You do not have permission to use my images by themselves to create pinnable graphics for Pinterest, however they may be included in a roundup pin if there are 4 or more other patterns. If you sell finished items online, please do not use my pictures for your listings. I’m positive that your work is of high enough quality for you to sell the finished piece. Have confidence in your abilities! <3 Thank you!This pattern was made to be used by individuals, and small business crocheters alike. Selling your finished pieces in boutiques, at farmer’s markets, craft shows, and other local events is encouraged! The only thing I require is that this pattern not be used commercially to produce hundreds of thousands of copies.If you enjoyed this pattern or found it useful, why not share a link to this post with your friends?

Source: https://t-tees.com
Category: HOW