How To Install Glove Box Light - T-Tees - Your Answers Await, Life's Questions Unraveled

Intro:

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This is my first Instructable. Forgive the lack of images at the beginning because I was not originally going to do this, but a classmate suggested that I start making these. This instructible will not be a one-fix, no-brainer solution for all; you will need some creativity if you want to duplicate my results for yourself

You are viewing: How To Install Glove Box Light

The need:

My car came without a glove box light but had a hole for one. I looked around the web and couldn’t find any place that sold the assembly, so I figured I’d just make one with one of the 10W LEDs I had laying around. The result was pretty satisfactory and the total cost is around $3 (more if you have to buy a heatsink).

Parts:

Desired LED(s) – I used a 10W (because of the 12V drop), I recommend at least 3W (you’ll need in series or a resistor) or a small LED bar equivalent of at least 400-500 lumens. Ebay pricing:: Bought in bulk: ~$0.80each | individually: ~$1.30
Compatible Heatsink – “Compatible” in this case means both with your LED and with the room you have above your glove box. You can salvage these from scores of electronics. Otherwise these are typically $5-10 online or at RadioShack.
Thermal Paste – If you work with computers, you should have this laying around. Otherwise, it’s $5-10 for a tube.
“Normally-On” Push-Button Switch – got mine at RadioShack (yes, they’re still around) for ~$1.00 (way too much, but it’s of decent quality). “Normally-on” means it will conduct when depressed and, in this case, turn off your LED when the glove box door is closed.
Screws – Both for mounting your LED on the heatsink and mounting your heatsink on the glove box. I will assume most people have a decent collection of these. Otherwise, take your parts to a hardware store until you find something that matches the holes in the LED and the spacing of the fins on your heatsink (or smaller).
Smallish Wire – You can use large gauge wire if you want I guess, but it’s completely unnecessary. I used small-gauge speaker wire, but anything flexible (and solderable) will work.
Optional Wire Nuts – I used just one (small gauge).
Optional Electrical Tape – Helps keep contacts away from heatsink and can be used in place of solder

Refer to more articles: How To Make A Mario Gloves

Equipment:

Drill – Necessary.
Bits – Necessary. Sized slightly larger than your selected mounting screws
Table saw – Optional. Needed in conjunction with a metal cutting blade if you need to trim your heatsink (like I did)
Screwdriver – Necessary. Used to install your screws and take your glove box apart.
Allen Wrench Set – Almost undoubtedly needed to take your glove compartment apart.
Soldering Iron + Rosin-Core Solder – Highly Recommended. (To secure your wire to the switch and LED)

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Category: HOW