Since I know people come to instructables with varying skill levels, I’m going to write this two ways: one wiring guide for someone who has never made a circuit before, and one for someone who is comfortable putting together simple circuits. If you want to try the latter, please skip to the next step, you can always come back.

If you’re the kind of person who likes to understand what you’re doing before you do it, I would suggest checking out some other online resources on the basics of circuits first. I would suggest looking at other instructables, YouTube and Sparkfun Learn to name a few. Try to get a grasp on things like electricity, circuits, leds, batteries, and parallel circuits. If you don’t know a word I use in the instructions, look it up!

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What I did here was construct a parallel circuit, wiring 4 leds to one 3v watch battery. I would suggest wiring up the 4 leds to the battery on a breadboard before assembling it in 3D.

1. Place an led on the breadboard, the positive lead on one trace and the negative lead on another. A trace is the row of the breadboard that is electrically connected. The positive lead of an LED is the longer leg, the negative lead the shorter one.
2. Then place 3 more leds “in parallel” to this first one, the positive leads on one row, and the negative leads on another.
3. Plug two wires into the breadboard, a positive and a negative.
4. Connect a 3v power supply to the breadboard. This could be the 3v watch battery if you have a holder that can plug in, it could be a 2 cell AA battery holder, which would provide a total of 3v, or it could be a bench power supply set to 3v, to name a few options.
5. Then use the positive and negative leads that you connected in number 3. Plug the other end of these wires into the traces connected to the positive and negative leads of the battery. The plus should denote the positive side, but if you’re not sure, the circuit will only work one way, so try both! It’s not that important in a simple circuit like this, but it is good practice to plug in the negative lead first.
6. The lights should turn on! If not, don’t worry, I still plug things in wrong every day, so just review the previous steps carefully. If nothing seems wrong, you might have a bad component (I’ve found especially some breadboards can be really inconsistent) so try swapping out the parts!
7. Next we want to connect a switch between the power lead of the battery and the power lead of the LED. Unplug the wire connecting the power lead of the battery and the power leads of the LEDs. Plug one lead of the switch into the “power rail,” and the other(s) into adjacent rails. Finally, connect wire to trace of the other lead of the switch to complete the circuit.
8. Flip the switch and the lights should turn on

And that’s the circuit! Now we gotta reconstruct this circuit inside the 3D print 😀

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Here’s the plan. We’re going to create a sort of double loop design. The positive loop around the base, and an elevated negative loop. These loops will be constructed of bare copper wire, each one connected to its respective lead on the battery.

1. Place the LEDs in the designated spaces, rotate so the positive loop is facing the “outside” face of the repulsor piece, and the negative lead is facing the “inside.”
2. Hot glue the LEDs in place. Don’t go crazy, just enough glue to hold them in place. If you don’t have hot glue, any sort of relatively clear drying glue should do the trick, but will take longer to dry.
3. Bend positive leads around the disk, either clockwise or counter clockwise it doesn’t really matter.
4. Bend the negative leads inwards a bit, over the plastic piece.
5. Measure and cut a length of copper wire to go around the disk. Bend it around the disk.
6. Solder the positive leads of the LEDs to the copper wire loop. You can twist the leads around the wire if you want for a more secure hold, but just soldering them adjacent should do the trick.
7. Then create a similar, slightly smaller copper wire loop for the negative ring.
8. Bend the negative leads around the negative loop. You may want to twist it around several times for a secure hold later, but start by creating a tight “U” shape with the LED lead to hold the copper wire in place. Solder these 4 joints first to hold it in place, then you can either clip off the excess wire or twist it more times and solder. You should leave at least half a centimeter length between the two rings.
9. You now have a completed circuit! At this point you should connect the power source you used to test the circuit earlier to the two rings to see if the lights turn on! If only some of them turn on, check your solder joints and make sure none of the wire has broken from the twisting. If none of them turn on, then you may have wired it backwards, in which case just reverse the polarity (switch the direction) of the battery!
10. You may want to go back and glue the LEDs more securely now.
11. Finally, connect a short length of copper wire to the battery leads. You want just enough to space out the battery from the repulsor, but a short enough length so that the battery remains hidden under the 3D printed pieces. I used more bare copper wire for this part, but in retrospect I would suggest using normal jumper wire.
12. It’s ok if it’s messy! If it works, then you’re all set, because all of your wiring will be hidden under the armor. Just be careful of short circuits, especially if you are using a more volatile battery than a watch or AA. If you’re worried about the two sides touching, just throw some electrical tape on it. Not a good fix, but its better than a short.

And viola! You now have a wired up repulsor! If you made it through all that, you should be feeling a bit like Tony Stark, but just wait till you get to wear your creation!

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Category: HOW