Sorbitan Oleate is the INCI name of Sorbitan Monooleate. The INCI nomenclature is an international nomenclature for cosmetic ingredients and substances, standardizing the system of naming ingredients in cosmetics. Sorbitan Oleate as an emollient, emulsion stabilizer or conditioning agent is widely used in the cosmetics industry. It is obtained during the condensation reaction of oleic acid with sorbitol.

General characteristics

Sorbitan Oleate is an ester of oleic acid, an example of an unsaturated fatty acid (C18H34O2) and sorbitol, which belongs to the group of sugar alcohols (C6H14O6). In the literature, it is also referred to using its the common name: Sorbitan Monooleate. The CAS number of this compound is 1338-43-8. It is an unambiguous numerical term assigned to a chemical substance by the American organization, the Chemical Abstracts Service (CAS). Sorbitan Oleate is a viscous liquid, yellow to brown in colour. It is well soluble in ethanol, mineral oil and also vegetable oils. However, it is characterized by very low solubility in water. Sorbitan Oleate is a type of ingredient that can be animal, vegetable, and synthetic in origin. Most often, the plant origin is dominant, as a result of obtaining oleic acid for synthesis from olive oil, butter or cod liver oil.

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Chemically, Sorbitan Monooleate is formed by the binding of sorbitan (a dehydrated sorbitol molecule) to an unsaturated fatty acid (oleic acid), which forms particles that are partially water-soluble (sorbitan) and partially oil-soluble (oleic acid). The structure of the resulting molecules determines its properties and application.

Function in cosmetic products

Sorbitan Oleate in cosmetic formulations acts as a base ingredient. Base substances are the necessary elements needed to create a cosmetic. They are responsible for the form in which the cosmetic occurs, and also allow the introduction of other components, including active substances. Sorbitan Oleate, being the base ingredient, is a lipophilic emulsifier in W/O emulsions (water molecules suspended in the oily phase). A characteristic feature of W/O emulsions is a strong interaction caused by small distances between the water droplets suspended in the emulsion. For this reason, such dispersion systems are recommended for the care of dry skin. As an emulsifier, it also protects the cosmetic against delamination during its storage. In addition, Sorbitan Oleate works in cosmetic formulations as a dispersant, as well as a non-ionic surfactant, i.e. a surfactant. Cosmetics containing Sorbitan Oleate show strong moisturizing properties. They prevent the epidermis from losing water and drying out, which is caused by other high-power detergents. In cosmetics intended mainly for make-up, i.e. in colour cosmetics, it disperses the pigments and mineral filters in sunscreen preparations (allows them to evenly disperse in the entire volume of the cosmetic formulation).

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Sorbitan Oleate is used in a variety of formulas in the cosmetics industry, including skincare products, skin cleansing products (cleansing mousses, gels, micellar lotions), moisturizing products, eye make-up, and other make-up products. It is also perceived as a fragrance ingredient.

Non-cosmetic use of Sorbitan Oleate

Sorbitan Oleate, although commonly used in the production of cosmetic formulations, is also used in other industries due to its properties:

• products containing Sorbitan Oleate, such as, for example, ROKwin 80 offered by the PCC Group, have the ability to extinguish foam;
• it is used in emulsion explosives in the mining industry;
• it serves as a PVC plasticizer in the manufacture of compositions used for coating paper and metal foils;
• in the polymerization of styrene, butadiene and butadiene-styrene copolymer, it acts as an emulsion stabilizer.

The safety of using cosmetics containing Sorbitan Oleate

Due to the absence of allergic reactions to cosmetic products containing Sorbitan Oleate, it has been recognized as a safe product under the applicable conditions and at the concentrations used. Data from the Sorbitan Oleate safety reports include rare cases of skin irritation (severe acne problems, eczema, blackheads) after contact with the product. They mainly affect people who suffer from serious skin diseases.

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