Why This Recipe Works: We love the flavor and texture that whole-wheat flour gives bread. Some artisan bakers take this concept further, making breads with flour that they grind from whole wheat berries. You might think a bread made with homemade flour sounds a bit unnecessary, and we sure did—until we tried it. While whole-wheat flour has a tinge of bitterness, freshly ground wheat berries give bread a robust flavor with superlatively toasty, sweet notes. To start our own recipe for a rustic loaf made from wheat berries, we needed to figure out the best way to pulverize them. We thought the blender would work, but we had to grind the berries in batches to achieve an even texture. We were also concerned that the generous amount of homemade whole-wheat flour in our recipe (45 percent of the total flour weight) might compromise the structure. So we decided on a two-part solution: First, we soaked our wheat berries in water (for 12 to 24 hours) to soften the bran; the mixture then transformed quickly into a paste in the food processor. Second, we combined our mash with bread flour and a sponge, both of which contributed to a strong gluten network.
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Makes: 1 loaf Resting time: 12 hours 20 minutes Rising time: 3 to 4 hours Baking time: 35 minutes Total time: 17 to 18 hours, plus 3 hours cooling time Key equipment: food processor, water-filled spray bottle, large linen towel, 5-quart colander, baking stone, 2 (9-inch) disposable aluminum pie plates, 2 quarts lava rocks, pizza peel, lame, instant-read thermometer
You can find whole wheat berries in the natural- or bulk-foods section of the grocery store. You can substitute a round banneton, or proofing basket, for the towel-lined colander.
SOAKER 1¼ cups (8 ounces) wheat berries 1 cup (8 ounces) water, room temperature
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SPONGE ¾ cup (4⅛ ounces) bread flour ½ cup (4 ounces) water, room temperature ¼ teaspoon instant or rapid-rise yeast
DOUGH ¼ cup (2 ounces) water, room temperature 1 cup (5½ ounces) bread flour 2½ teaspoons instant or rapid-rise yeast 1 tablespoon honey 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil 1¼ teaspoon salt
1. For the soaker: Combine wheat berries and water in bowl, cover tightly with plastic wrap, and let sit at room temperature until grains are fully hydrated and softened, at least 12 hours or up to 24 hours.
2. For the sponge: Stir all ingredients in 4-cup liquid measuring cup with wooden spoon until well combined. Cover tightly with plastic wrap and let sit at room temperature until sponge has risen and begins to collapse, about 6 hours (sponge can sit at room temperature for up to 24 hours).
3. For the dough: Process soaked wheat berries, remaining soaking liquid, and water in food processor until grains are finely ground, about 4 minutes, scraping down sides of bowl as needed.
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4. Whisk flour and yeast together in bowl of stand mixer. Stir wheat berry mixture and honey into sponge with wooden spoon until well combined. Using dough hook on low speed, slowly add sponge mixture to flour mixture and mix until cohesive dough starts to form and no dry flour remains, about 2 minutes, scraping down bowl as needed. Cover bowl tightly with plastic and let dough rest for 20 minutes.
5. Add oil and salt to dough and knead on medium-low speed until dough is smooth and elastic and clears sides of bowl but sticks to bottom, about 5 minutes. Transfer dough to lightly greased large bowl or container, cover tightly with plastic, and let rise for 30 minutes.
6. Using greased bowl scraper (or your fingertips), fold dough over itself by gently lifting and folding edge of dough toward middle. Turn bowl 45 degrees and fold dough again; repeat turning bowl and folding dough 6 more times (total of 8 folds). Cover tightly with plastic and let rise for 30 minutes. Repeat folding and rising. Fold dough again, then cover bowl tightly with plastic and let dough rise until nearly doubled in size, 1 to 1½ hours.
7. Mist underside of large linen or cotton tea towel with water. Line 5-quart colander with towel and dust evenly with flour. Transfer dough to lightly floured counter (side of dough that was against bowl should now be against counter). Press and stretch dough into 10-inch round, deflating any gas pockets larger than 1 inch.
8. Working around circumference of dough, fold edges toward center until ball forms. Flip dough ball seam side down and, using your cupped hands, drag in small circles on counter until dough feels taut and round and all seams are secured on underside of loaf.
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