New Hampshire’s Lakes region is dominated by the deliciously pronounceable Lake Winnipesaukee. But it was nearby smaller Squam Lake that gained fame 40 years ago with the release of the movie “On Golden Pond,” the second highest growing movie of 1981. “Raiders of the Lost Ark” came in first, but Indy takes some beating, even now.
The small town of Holderness, which wraps around Squam Lake’s western shore, doesn’t look much changed since Katharine Hepburn, Henry Fonda and Jane Fonda rolled in to shoot the three-time Oscar winning film. Big stars though they are, it was some local characters who stole many scenes: Squam Lake’s loon population, calling out in their eerily beautiful fashion, became overnight sensations.
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The Loon Preservation Society in nearby Moultonborough is tasked with education for the preservation of this native North America bird — it has one of the most fun gift shops, packed with loon-y cute things.
Squam Lake’s myriad islands and coves are home for the migratory loons and other wildlife, including bald eagles. Unfortunately, this year there were no eagle chicks, and loon chicks have declined the past four years. Hatching season is early July and the Fourth is prime chick season, just as many boaters take to the lake, adding more hazards for loon families.
Hiking up Rattlesnake Mountain gives spectacular views of Squam Lake and its small companion Little Squam, which are joined by a channel in “downtown” Holderness. But the thing is to get out on the water: rent a kayak at the Squam Lakes Science Center. That’s the best way to navigate rocky coves. The center also offers boat tours to spot loons and bald eagles, and film location sites, and has walking trails dotted with captive animals, which, they say, are unable to live in the wild.
Experience Squam, whose website is a wonderful resource of things to do in the area, offers extensive boat excursions around the lake with local, knowledgeable guides. The tours set off from Little Squam, right by the very boat gas station featured in the film, and cruise carefully past the first inlet, Cotton Cove, out onto the wide open water.
There are so many islands: the aptly named Great Island is the lake’s largest. Slow down and, with luck, a doting loon and chicks might be spotted. There! A mom loon ferrying two chicks on her back! Do not get “photo op” close. Zoom and let the loon family safely on their way, instead.
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Squam’s shore is dotted with camps and cabin rentals, including the Rockywold-Deephaven Camp, which is on the National Register for Historic Places. Also, the Squam Lakes Association operates campsites on two islands. For picnicking, head to the Squam Lakes Market, a cafe, deli, wine, beer, and gift shop — yes, there is loon ephemera to go with excellent fresh salads and sandwiches, and tempting baked goods.
It wasn’t just movie-goers who fell in love with “On Golden Pond,” many businesses adopted names inspired by the film. Walter’s Basin Restaurant and Bar, which has a deck right on the lake, is named for the film’s mighty trout, Walter.
Then there’s the Inn on Golden Pond — built in 1879 as a private home — a B&B with comfy, classic accommodations and a cooked breakfast in its dining room overlooking unspoiled woodland.
The grand Manor on Golden Pond, perched atop Shepard Hill, has fantastic views over the lake. This English Tudor revival styled house built in 1907 has a quaint bar, the Three Cocks Pub; an elegant wood-paneled dining room; a lobby sitting room with a grand marble and mahogany framed fireplace; tennis courts and a heated outdoor pool. Some rooms have lake views, wood burning fireplaces, or patios. Breakfast and afternoon tea are included in the room rate.
Squam Lake Inn, across Shepard Hill, is a boutique B&B set in an 1890s farmhouse, and a Lakes Region top draw for its indoor-outdoor Kitchen + Bar restaurant. The progressive bar program offers biodynamic and organic wines, craft beers, and cocktails made from fresh fruits and herbs. Breakfast is included in the room rate and food seasonally inspired: dinner of a piquant local strawberry and beet gazpacho, grilled artichoke with lemon aioli, and in-house made ice cream sandwiches — say, a molasses cookie with ginger ice cream made by nearby Sandwich Creamery — is, like Squam Lake itself, a summer treat.
If you go:
Experience Squam, 859 US-3, Holderness. 603-968-3990. experiencesquam.com
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The Inn on Golden Pond — summer rates from $295; rooms have sofa beds. 1080 Route 3, Holderness. 603-968-7269. 4545. www.innongoldenpond.com.
The Loon Center, 183 Lees Mill Rd., Moultonborough. 603-476-5666. www.loon.org
The Manor on Golden Pond — summer rates from $270. 31 Manor Drive, Holderness. 800-545-2141. www.manorongoldenpond.com
Rockywold-Deephaven Camp, 8 Bacon Road, Holderness. 603-968-3313. rdcsquam.com
Squam Lakes Association, 534 US Route 3, Holderness. 603-968-7336 www.squamlakes.org
The Squam Lake Inn — Summer rates from $199. 28 Shepard Hill Rd., Holderness. 603-968-4417. www.squamlakeinn.com
Squam Lakes Natural Science Center, 23 Science Center Road, Holderness. 603-968-7194. www.nhnature.org.
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