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The process of taming kittens can take a few days or a few months, depending on their age and their exposure to humans before you rescued them, individual temperament even within the same litter, and their state of wildness or previous trauma. Taming a kitten, teaching it to love and trust humans, is a very rewarding process. By doing so, you are saving their life and creating a wonderful companion to a very lucky human!

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The steps involved in the taming process are: 1. Initial Confinement 2. Periodic and brief handling 3. Bathroom Confinement 4. Exposure to other humans 5. Adoption

Kittens under 8 weeks of age “tame up” very quickly. Usually within a few days. Remember that you are a big-scary-human to them and they have been through some major life changes in a few short days. They may hiss and spit and smack at you, but remember it is only out of fear, not aggression.

ALL BITES ARE SERIOUS. IF BITTEN SEEK MEDICAL ATTENTION AND QUARANTINE THE KITTEN.

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8-12 weeks of age is manageable, but will take a little longer. Over 12 weeks, you will need to have patience if the kitten has never been around people. If it was being fed at a feral feeding station, it will already have learned that people = food = good.

If mama is feral, it is best to separate them as soon as the kittens are weaned. Otherwise the kitten will pick up on mama’s fear and take longer to trust you. If mama taught them to be afraid of us, they will be and it’s very hard to undo. Surprisingly though, there are many trusting feral mamas who know that people bring food, but they are not really tame, who produce sweet kittens who are easy to tame.

Kittens should be separated from other cats (your pets or other fosters) until they have been tested for contagious diseases. Kittens can typically be tested at about 2lbs or 8 weeks of age. Keep the kitten isolated until it has been tested, wash your hands after handling, and wear a smock or change your clothes to protect against the spread of disease to other pets. Most likely the kittens are fine, but you should not risk the health of your own pets or other fosters.

If the kitten was trapped, transfer it from the trap into a cage or large pet carrier. Have the new “home” prepped with a litter box, food, water, and bedding. Keep the cage mostly covered, to help it feel safe. Keep other pets and children away from them so they can adjust to their new surroundings.

For the first night, leave the kitten alone to calm down, adjust, and relax in its new surroundings.

Note: An experienced rescuer may not wait two days and will usually hold the kitten and de-flea and de-worm it the same night after letting it calm down for a few hours. Kittens under 6 weeks can usually be held and snuggled immediately.It depends on the experience of the rescuer and the age and temperment of the kitten(s).

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For the first two days, do not handle the kitten, but make frequent visits to talk softly and get it use to your presence. Move slowly and confidently. Do not stare at the kitten, as this may feel threatening to them. Food and water and bedding should be placed in the cage or carrier. Many cages and carriers have food and water bowls attached to the doors so that you can feed and water the kittens without having to place your hand inside. If you do not have a cage, or your carrier is too small for a litter pan, place the kittens in a small room, like a bathroom, in the carrier. Place the litter box in the room and leave the carrier door open so that the kittens have access to the box. (If you are working with CC4C, ask your sponsor if you can borrow a cage from one of our members.)

Young kittens appreciate having fuzzy bedding and a cat bed that has a lip to it. They can curl up in this and feel safe and protected and the fuzziness reminds them of mama and safety. Do not give them a box with one opening to hide in, you do want them to be able to see you and be easy to reach when you are ready to handle them.

After 2 days, select the least aggressive kitten, place a towel over it to pick it up or use leather gloves (welding gloves are good because they are long). If you can avoid it, do not approach from the front as a hand coming towards them and reaching over their head can be frightening and cause them to hiss or bite.

If the kitten remains calm, grip it securely by the nape of the neck, put the towel on your lap and set it on the towel. Or snuggle the kitten in the towel or against your chest (if they are calm) to help them feel safe and secure. (See pictures below.) Stroke it gently on the head and speak softly and gently to the kitten. Then move to stroking the whole body, then release. Make this first physical contact brief. Go through this process with each kitten. The stroking and petting action imitates the action of the mother grooming the kittens and will help the kitten start to transfer its need for parental love to you.

Once you feel comfortable handling the kitten, check it for fleas and remove them as soon as possible. Kittens over 6 weeks of age can be treated with Advantage or Frontline (per the manufacturer’s instructions). If there are only a few fleas, it would still be best to comb them out or pick them off. Under 6 weeks of age, you must do this as they are too young for the topical treatment. Kittens become anemic from flea infestation and can easily fall prey to illnesses in this condition. Combing with a flea comb also helps the bonding process.

Mimic the grooming action of the mother when holding and petting kittens. Take your thumb and forefinger and gently ” pull” small areas of hair around the kittens face and ears. For optimum experience, you can moisten your fingers for a realistic experience for the baby kitten! They really think that you are grooming them and that you are their mother.

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Category: WHO