HomeWHOWho Owns Cactus Plant Flea Market

Who Owns Cactus Plant Flea Market

For the past five years, Cactus Plant Flea Market’s smiley-face-emblazoned tees and hoodies have teleported the most important and prolific musicians in the world (plus Timothée Chalamet) into another dimension of style. “When I wear Cactus Plant, I feel like I have on antigravity,” says Pharrell, who had a hand in the brand’s creation. “I don’t feel like I am living within the matrix of the social norm.”

That mind-expanding effect is why Cactus Plant’s puff-print graphics—which look like dreamy doodles you might find in the margins of a dog-eared Kesey novel—have sprouted up everywhere you look. Back in 2016, to get your hands on CPFM, you would have had to go to a boutique like Dover Street Market, where, if you were lucky, you might find a few crunchy hand-dyed tees and hoodies with slogans like “We Are All Powered by the Sun.” Lately you just had to go to your favorite artist’s merch stand—Pharrell, Kanye West, the A$AP Mob, Kid Cudi, and even the Rolling Stones have all commissioned CPFM designs for recent tours.

Despite support from style oracles like Frank Ocean and Lil Uzi Vert, Cactus Plant Flea Market remains shrouded in mystery. Since launching the brand five years ago, its sphinx-like founder, Cynthia Lu, has never given an interview. And thus grew the legend—that she did it all working solo out of a small Brooklyn apartment; that your tees might arrive with your name lovingly sewn into the collar; that when she met with Nike’s design team to work on the first CPFM sneaker, she stunned the room by dumping a duffel bag of prototypes she had already DIY’d onto the table. (All true, it turns out: Lu stitched the sneakers together using off-the-rack VaporMaxes, T-shirt scraps, lights cut from Payless sneakers, and garden wire.)

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Cactus Plant represents a rare antidote to the sameness that is rampant in fashion. Call it artisanal streetwear. If you managed to score one of the few CPFM x Denim Tears pieces Lu made with Tremaine Emory in May, you’ll never find another like it, as the print—a yellow smiley face wearing a David Hammons African American-flag bandana—was done on vintage sweats. Many Cactus Plant pieces feature unique hand-dye treatments or embroidery, often done by Lu herself. One of the most coveted CPFM products is a custom enamel-and-diamond friendship bracelet Lu creates with hip-hop jeweler of record Jacob & Co. Her other collaborators include Comme des Garçons, Nike, Stüssy, and Alpinestars.

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