In Richmond, however, the dish did not seem to exist. So, Mitchell and Knox bought a fryer and set about starting a business. These days, they sell fried turkeys year-round, but their busy season is right now, from mid-October through March. On the three days leading up to Thanksgiving, Mitchell will cook 50 to 75 turkeys, all fried to order so that they’re crispy and piping hot when customers pick them up.

Mitchell, for his part, has honed his skills to the point where he’s now able to deep-fry six turkeys at a time — though, again, and it cannot be stressed enough, this isn’t something any backyard amateur should ever attempt.

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Despite the hazards of the technique, the case for fried turkey is simple: Devotees like Mitchell and Knox say there’s no juicier or more flavorful way to prepare the bird. Too often, roast turkey functions as nothing more than a dry and bland canvas for the more interesting dishes in your holiday spread. Mitchell’s three-day process mitigates these pitfalls. First he brines the turkey for two days, then seasons it for an additional day, blanketing the bird with onion powder, garlic powder and a mixture of other spices.

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The result, Knox says, is turkey that’s juicy, moist and “packed with flavor” all the way down to the bones, which many customers like to save for making soup. And while the true fried turkey connoisseur is going to want to plate their bird shortly after it comes out of the fryer to maximize the crispiness of the skin, the other virtue of this style of turkey is that it reheats extraordinarily well. In fact, Knox says, some customers will routinely pick up their fried turkeys early in the week in order to drive them down to L.A. or fly them out to Atlanta for Thanksgiving.

In addition to the turkeys, Kim’s also offers a selection of Southern-style sides for the holidays — including cornbread dressing, candied yams and New Orleans-style dirty rice. Knox, who was born and raised in Richmond, has family roots in Louisiana and says the side dishes are all family recipes for comfort foods that she and Mitchell grew up eating. “We tried to pick dishes that say family, that say Thanksgiving, that say good eating,” she says.

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