Why Did Sephora Stop Selling Philosophy

While beauty conglomerate Coty has been slowly building up its clean positioning since late last year — first with Sally Hansen’s clean nail polish line Good.Kind.Pure. in November and with Philosophy’s Nature in a Jar collection in December — it’s been through new franchises. Even Calvin Klein’s fragrance Everyone, an iteration of CK One that debuted this year and was considered cleaner in formulation (it includes 79% “natural origin” ingredients), was a new product.

However, Philosophy’s Purity cleanser re-launch in August demonstrated that big beauty can reformulate. Purity is arguably 24-year-old Philosophy’s most iconic franchise, and last month, the brand took the plunge to remove parabens from its one-step cleanser. Margot Humbert, Philosophy svp of global, would not share Purity’s sales, but said it is the No. 1 facial cleanser in the U.S.

“[Founder] Cristina Carlino’s founding principle for the brand was bringing superior scientific formulations to market, but she always wanted to emphasize the ideals of feeling well. She believed only when you feel good, that’s when you can look your best,” said Humbert.

While Philosophy’s 1996 positioning sounds like it was tailor-made for 2020, Humbert said the brand is working hard to make sure product — and subsequently content and online outreach — match today’s customer expectations. “We have an array of mediums like social and digital that didn’t really exist in 1996 to leverage this story; all Cristina really had was her product and her packaging,” she said. “We were called out because we had a lot of poetry and words on our packaging, but consumers said ‘This doesn’t tell me anything.’”

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Simona Cattaneo, president of luxury brands at Coty, said, “Consumers today are more thoughtful about their skin-care purchases and want transparency when it comes to ingredients and the products they use. The removal of parabens from Philosophy’s iconic Purity cleanser was an important step in addressing consumers’ needs and the brand’s larger clean initiative, which will continue to play a role in new and existing franchises.”

By 2022, Philosophy is hoping to make the full transition to clean. By year end, it plans to remove parabens, formaldehydes, phthalates, hydroquinone and synthetic fragrances (greater than 1% ) from its its skin-care portfolio. And 2021 will include the phase out of sulfates (SLS and SLES), mineral oil, petrolatum and petroleum, among other ingredients. This type of staggered clean rollout will likely extend to sister brands of Philosophy, as new Coty CEO Sue Nabi said in August that she wants to focus on better products for the larger portfolio.

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